Tag Archive for: pearls

A Mikimoto 18K rose gold and diamond ring, centered on a 13.5mm (0.053in) black South Sea pearl, achieved $6,000 in May 2020. Image courtesy of GWS Auctions Inc., and LiveAuctioneers

Pearls: Gems of the Sea

A pair of earrings set with natural pearls measuring 11.58mm (0.045in) and 11.62mm (0.045in) respectively, achieved £30,000 (about $36,000) in August 2021. Image courtesy of Elmwood’s and LiveAuctioneers

A pair of earrings set with natural pearls measuring 11.58mm (0.045in) and 11.62mm (0.045in) respectively, achieved £30,000 (about $36,000) in August 2021. Image courtesy of Elmwood’s and LiveAuctioneers

At a 2018 Sotheby’s auction, an exquisite pearl and diamond pendant worn by Marie Antoinette sold for $32 million. Naturally, the provenance of the piece influenced the final price, but it’s worth noting that pearls were rarer than most other gems in the doomed French queen’s time, including diamonds. Without the history, though, would the pearl jewelry have been worth as much on its own?

“A pearl is probably the most complex gem to assess,” says gemologist Tom Moses of the Gemological Institute of America in the video series So Expensive from Business Insider.

Moses noted that one reason the Marie Antoinette pearl sold as well as it did was because it was a natural pearl, which ranks as the highest of the three pearl classifications: natural, cultured and imitation. All are beautiful, but some are more precious than others.

Natural Pearls

Imagine you are a mollusk – an oyster, mussel or any type of shelled bivalve – and an irritant enters your shell. You don’t have teeth, claws or other built-in weaponry. Your only defense is to cover the invader, layer by layer, with a calcium carbonate (conchiolin and aragonite) substance you produce, called nacre (NAY-ker), or mother-of-pearl. You keep excreting nacre until the unwanted visitor is completely surrounded and no longer a threat. This irritant also serves as a bead nucleus, eventually growing large enough to become a pearl. The word “pearl” is derived from the Latin word perna, meaning leg – the shape of a bivalve known to yield pearls.

This three-strand rope of 339 natural saltwater pearls by Cartier achieved HK$4.8 million (nearly $612,000) plus the buyer’s premium in July 2022. Image courtesy of Poly Auction Hong Kong and LiveAuctioneers

This three-strand rope of 339 natural saltwater pearls by Cartier achieved HK$4.8 million (nearly $612,000) plus the buyer’s premium in July 2022. Image courtesy of Poly Auction Hong Kong and LiveAuctioneers

Until relatively recently, the only way to obtain natural pearls was to recruit a deep-water diver to retrieve them. The work was dangerous and deadly. Some divers attached weights to their feet to speed their plunge to the seabed, where they would gather all the oysters they could grab while holding their breath. They would return to the surface, deposit what they had caught, and repeat the process.

The arrival of the metal diving suit made things slightly easier, but it, too, could prove hazardous if its air hose became disconnected or there was some other mishap that required the diver to be pulled up to the surface. In any event, fishing for natural pearls is life-threatening work with no guarantee of a reward. For every ton of oysters harvested, only a handful of pearls is found.

A natural pearl necklace with three graduated strands earned €145,000 (about $148,000) in November 2020. Image courtesy of Cambi Casa D’Aste and LiveAuctioneers

A natural pearl necklace with three graduated strands earned €145,000 (about $148,000) in November 2020. Image courtesy of Cambi Casa D’Aste and LiveAuctioneers

This explains why natural pearls are so expensive and why only about 1% of pearls in circulation qualify as natural. In fact, most natural pearls are vintage and almost never appear outside of auction settings. Designers of contemporary pearl jewelry rely on cultured pearls instead.

Cultured Pearls

By the late 19th century, overharvesting of oysters for pearls and food, combined with pollution that resulted from the Industrial Revolution, led to the decline of natural pearls.

This set of Mikimoto akoya saltwater pearl and 18K gold earrings sold for $950 plus the buyer’s premium in April 2022. Image courtesy of Bidhaus and LiveAuctioneers.

This set of Mikimoto akoya saltwater pearl and 18K gold earrings sold for $950 plus the buyer’s premium in April 2022. Image courtesy of Bidhaus and LiveAuctioneers.

In 1893, Japanese entrepreneur Kokichi Mikimoto filed a patent on a method of creating cultured pearls. By the 1920s, after much trial-and-error and after negotiating permission to incorporate other patented methods in combination, Mikimoto mastered the production of spherical, naturally occurring cultured pearls – a feat that many had thought was biologically impossible.

A Mikimoto 18K rose gold and diamond ring, centered on a 13.5mm (0.053in) black South Sea pearl, achieved $6,000 in May 2020. Image courtesy of GWS Auctions Inc., and LiveAuctioneers

A Mikimoto 18K rose gold and diamond ring, centered on a 13.5mm (0.053in) black South Sea pearl, achieved $6,000 in May 2020. Image courtesy of GWS Auctions Inc., and LiveAuctioneers

The process involves carefully inserting round pieces of organic oyster material or shell, called saibo, into another pearl-bearing oyster or mollusk mantel as a bead nucleus. Thus prepared, the mollusk or oyster is reintroduced into either freshwater or saltwater until it generates enough nacre for the desired size of pearl, which can take between six months to two years. Mikimoto’s approach is still the basis for cultured pearl production, more than 100 years later.

Imitation Pearls

Costume jewelry pearls are usually manufactured from glass, ceramic, shell or even plastic bases that are painted or covered with mother-of-pearl to simulate the iridescent luster of a pearl. They draw little to no interest at auction.

How to tell the Difference

Just by looking at a gleaming, soft, smooth, iridescent pearl from afar, it can be difficult to know precisely what type of pearl it is. Is it a natural, cultured or an imitation pearl?

It is perfectly acceptable to drag it lightly across the surface of your teeth (not the edges, or else you might scratch the pearl) to see if it feels a bit rough and uneven. If it does, it’s either a natural or a cultured pearl. An imitation pearl will have a smooth surface.

This 10K gold and diamond ring featuring Tahitian baroque pearls sold for $550 plus the buyer’s premium in October 2021. Image courtesy of The Benefit Shop Foundation, Inc. and LiveAuctioneers

This 10K gold and diamond ring featuring Tahitian baroque pearls sold for $550 plus the buyer’s premium in October 2021. Image courtesy of The Benefit Shop Foundation, Inc. and LiveAuctioneers

Gemologists use X-rays to determine a pearl’s origin. Natural pearls will show layers of growth, similar to the interior of an onion, with the bead nucleus at the center. Cultured pearls, in contrast, have only one thin layer of growth at the top. Freshwater pearls show no evidence of a bead nucleus, because it will have been completely dissolved.

Imitation pearls lack the heft of both the natural and cultured pearl and are easily scratched. Also, its manufactured covering can peel under the stress of constant use.

What to Look For

Pearls are classified by size, shape, color, luster and complexion and are measured in millimeters, usually from 5 mm (1/16in) to as much as 21 mm (13/16in).

The size of the mollusk will determine the eventual size of the pearl, but the most desirable shape is round, as round as possible. Only about one out of every 15,000 oysters produces a pearl of ideal roundness, according to gemologists.

Freshwater pearls come in a variety of colors, with the best classified as looking more pinkish than greenish, according to pearl grading charts. Luster is key to grading a pearl – it must reflect light clearly. Finally, the complexion of the pearl should be free of dents, ridges, edges or any marks to earn gem-quality status.

A Tiffany & Co., two-strand South Sea pearl, diamond and platinum necklace earned $22,000 in a September 2014 auction. Image courtesy of Heritage Auctions and LiveAuctioneers.

A Tiffany & Co., two-strand South Sea pearl, diamond and platinum necklace earned $22,000 in a September 2014 auction. Image courtesy of Heritage Auctions and LiveAuctioneers.

Cultured pearls are classified according to where they were grown. Freshwater pearls are cultivated from margaritiferidae mollusks, most of which are from China, while saltwater pearls come from pinctada oysters primarily farmed in Japan, Australia and the South Sea islands. Neither of these mollusks or oysters are the types we eat, so there’s no risk of accidentally biting into a pearl at dinner.

The smaller Akoya saltwater pearls, which come from Japan, have the highest luster of all cultured pearls and boast a desirable creamy white color. Japanese saltwater pearls classified as Hanadama are certified as having a higher gem quality. South Sea and Golden South Sea pearls are regarded as the rarest of the saltwater pearls. They feature a distinctive creamy silver luster and are cultivated in much larger sizes.

A 14mm (0.039in) South Sea golden pearl pendant was bid to $123,000 plus the buyer’s premium in February 2021. Image courtesy of Pacific Global Auction and LiveAuctioneers

A 14mm (0.039in) South Sea golden pearl pendant was bid to $123,000 plus the buyer’s premium in February 2021. Image courtesy of Pacific Global Auction and LiveAuctioneers

Freshwater pearls began to appear in the 1990s. They deliver more vibrant colors, distinctive shapes, and different sizes than their saltwater counterparts. They are much more plentiful as well. The variety known as the Baroque pearl, for example, has an irregular but pleasing shape, while the keshi or mabe (MAH-bay) pearl has a more flattened appearance, with a so-called “blister” in its center that readily accommodates a decorative gem.

A mabe pearl, sporting its characteristic blister, appears in this 14K gold and diamond pendant that realized $225 plus the buyer’s premium in August 2021. Image courtesy of Fontaine’s Auction Gallery and LiveAuctioneers

A mabe pearl, sporting its characteristic blister, appears in this 14K gold and diamond pendant that realized $225 plus the buyer’s premium in August 2021. Image courtesy of Fontaine’s Auction Gallery and LiveAuctioneers

The Tahitian pearl is cultured from the black-tip freshwater oyster producing the scarce black pearl. Dubbed the “Pearls of Queens,” Tahitian pearls usually assume irregular, baroque shapes, with perhaps one out of 10 presenting as round. Their colors range from black to gray, brown, green and even purple.

Two perfectly round black Tahitian pearls feature in these diamond dangle earrings that achieved $512,000 plus the buyer’s premium in July 2020. Image courtesy of 3 Kings Auction and LiveAuctioneers

Two perfectly round black Tahitian pearls feature in these diamond dangle earrings that achieved $512,000 plus the buyer’s premium in July 2020. Image courtesy of 3 Kings Auction and LiveAuctioneers

Whether natural or cultured, pearls have graced kings, queens and nobles for thousands of years. Pearls have gained even more appeal in modern times for being an environmentally friendly gemstone, the product of a renewable source cultivated in protected, unpolluted waters. They require little interference by man-made methods and provide ample luster without so much as a polish.

Whether acquired for investment, gala nights out or everyday sophistication, pearls possess a serene, magical essence that was reportedly described as “tears of joy” by Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love. No matter how pearls are worn, they will look and feel timeless for generations to come. That is Nature’s way.

Jasper52 auction highlights lustrous pearl jewelry Nov. 19

Jasper52 will hold a jewelry auction on Tuesday, Nov. 19, that showcases the beauty and versatility of fine cultured South Sea pearls. Pearl jewelry of elegant simplicity and glowing showstoppers are offered in this exclusive collection of 66 lots.

South Sea pearl with five round brilliant cut diamonds (0,04 carats) and an 18-inch 18K yellow gold chain. Estimate: $1,000-$1,100. Jasper52 image

View the auction here.

Learn more about the auction on Auction Central News.

Jasper52 presents exclusive pearl jewelry online auction Nov. 23

In time for holiday gift-giving to a special someone, Jasper52 will roll out the pearls in an exclusive jewelry auction Friday, Nov. 23. More than 100 lots—necklaces, bracelets and earrings—of certified pearl jewelry are being offered in this online auction, which showcases the beauty and versatility of fine pearls.

Estate double strand Akoya pearl necklace, 17½ inches. in 14K gold, diamond and tsavorite clasp. Estimate: $2,500-$3,000. Jasper52 image

View the auction.

Learn more about the auction on Auction Central News.

Pearl Wisdom: Natural and Man-Made

At first glance, pearls may seem simple and uncomplicated, but there’s much more to their story than meets the eye.

There are two general classes of pearls: natural or man-made. Natural pearls are created by a living organism as a result of irritation. It occurs when a foreign object like a piece of shell or bone, or even another living thing, becomes stuck within an invertebrate with a soft shell, such as an oyster or mussel. In an act of protecting itself, the host organism begins to cover the foreign element in nacre, a crystalline material secreted by the organism. Over time, built-up layers of nacre cover the irritant. Because the process is not tied to any particular time schedule, the result is a product whose pattern, sheen, color, and dimensions are unique. Each natural pearl has its own individual identity.

Bulgari two-strand choker necklace with ruby rondelle beads and cultured pearls, 18K yellow gold clasp. Auctioned by Clars Auction Gallery for $70,000 + buyer’s premium on Feb. 19, 2012. Clars and LiveAuctioneers image

Man-made pearls, which do not rely on nature to take its course, are far more common than their natural counterparts. Also, pearl harvesting has been an ongoing pursuit for generations, so discoveries of old pearls are far less common than in the past.

Jewelry dealer and pearl appraiser Deborah Boskin, owner of db Designs, explained the effect that diminished supply has had on the pearl market. “The increase in interest and resale value for natural pearls has steadily grown over the past two decades,” she said.

This makes it an opportune time to sell natural pearls or turn one’s focus toward cultured pearls, which are available and affordable.   

Pearl Fact: Fewer than one in every 10,000 oysters produces a natural pearl of significant value.

To meet the growing demand for pearls, the practice of culturing pearls began in the late 19th century. It was the innovation of Kokichi Mikimoto that led to production of the first cultured pearls. After witnessing the depletion of oysters due to overharvesting in the waters near his homeland of Japan, Mikimoto sought to devise a process that would produce man-made, or cultured, pearls. Mikimoto achieved his goal in July of 1893 when he was able to culture a semi-spherical pearl, according to information from the Mikimoto website.

As explained on mikimotoamerica.com, cultured pearls transformed the opportunity of acquiring a pearl “from a chance to a certainty.” Not unlike nature’s process of creating a pearl, cultured pearls begin with a foreign object invading the tissue of an oyster. However, the object is placed inside the oyster by a technician, thus forcing the living organism to begin the process of coating the foreign element with nacre, according to information found at PurePearls.com. The process of creating cultured pearls may take place in either fresh or saltwater.

Opening oysters, extracting and cleaning pearls found inside, near the seaside town of Xiamen, China. Photo by Gauthier Delecroix, Creative Commons image.

Cultivating pearls in saltwater may take anywhere from 18 months to three years, while cultured pearls formed in freshwater settings, including lakes, rivers, and ponds, may be harvested as soon as two years after the process has commenced, says PurePearls.com.

Cultured seawater pearls generally come from one of three locations, which is also a definition of the type of pearl. Akoya cultured pearls are the most common and best known. These pearls are produced in Japan and China; while South Sea cultured pearls are produced in the waters off Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Tahitian cultured pearls are cultivated around the islands of French Polynesia, most specifically Tahiti.

Pearl Fact: Archeological records reveal Mesopotamia was where natural pearls were discovered and first viewed as collectible gems. This took place around 2300 B.C., according to information obtained at the National Geographic website.

As fashion and cultural standards have changed, so, too, has the position of importance held by pearls.

Diamond and seed pearl necklace with central saltwater pearl measuring 60 centimeters. Auctioned for £1,300 ($1,600) in November 2017. Fellows and LiveAuctioneers image.

“For quite a while, every young woman owned and wore her cultured pearl strand as one of her primary pieces of jewelry. Japanese Akoya cultured pearls, both in graduated and uniform bead necklaces, were the status quo. Think of outfits in the 1950s and you can picture it,” Boskin said. “In the ’60s, styles began to change, and in the ’80s, South Sea cultured pearls came on strong. In the past few decades, people were inheriting cultured pearls necklaces from their grandmothers, aunts and mothers, but no one was wearing them, or buying them. On the secondary market, their value went down. There were too many sellers and too few buyers.”

She went on to say, “For South Sea pearls, the market was incredibly strong in both retail and secondary markets. The larger the pearl, the better, and people could own so many varieties – white, black, golden, bronze, pistachio colors in round, baroque and mixed strands,” Boskin continued. “Then in the 2000’s, the Chinese freshwater pearls being created began to be larger, rounder and with higher luster. Because they looked similar enough to South Sea pearls but were far less expensive, the South Sea market became quite soft. Today, the secondary market for cultured pearls overall seems to be slowly building back up.”

Although seawater cultured pearls are represented by a variety of types, these types are far less common than freshwater cultured pearls. Cultured pearls produced in seawater make up less than 10 percent of the global cultured pearl production, according to information found on the National Geographic website. In addition, seawater cultured pearls often have a higher value than freshwater pearls. Pearl farmers cultivating pearls in freshwater sources use mussels rather than oysters as the host, and they are able to insert a greater number of irritants into a single mussel, resulting in some 50 pearls at a time.

Baroque pearl and silver-inlay necklace. Jasper52 and LiveAuctioneers image

Pearl Facts: Pearl shapes and colors continue to evolve with technological advancements. Despite what may seem to be the case, the majority of cultured pearls are baroque, which simply means they are not round traditional pearls, but unique in shape.

If all this talk about pearls, natural and cultured, is igniting an interest in you to learn more, Boskin offers a few words of advice, starting with “buy what you love.” While jewelry does hold value, it is a relative value. It may not sell later for as much as its purchase price or insured “value.” Everything is continent on the whims of the market at any given point in time.

A final gem of wisdom about collecting pearls, natural or cultured, is to look for the best luster possible, Boskin said. Not only does luster enhance the beauty of a pearl, it tends to make the pearl more valuable.

Contact Deborah Boskin at http://www.deborahboskin.com.